1. Introduction
The leather industry is vital in the global economy, providing high-quality fashion, automotive, and upholstery products [
1]. Tanning is the chemical process by which collagen fibres are stabilized, preventing their putrefaction and ultimately forming durable leather [
2]. For over 160 years, conventional chrome tanning has been employed in leather manufacturing [
3], endowing leather with excellent shrinkage temperature (Ts) [
4] and mechanical properties like flexibility, durability, and resistance to environmental factors [
5]. Currently, 90% of hides are tanned using chrome [
6], where chromium ions (Cr
3+) crosslink with the carboxyl and amino groups in the collagen fibres [
7]. However, chrome tanning agents face significant limitations due to potential hazards, with the most concerning being the oxidative conversion of Cr(III) into hazardous and carcinogenic Cr(VI)[
8]. This oxidation process could occur during tanning process due to elevated pH levels, temperature fluctuations, exposure to UV radiation, improper storage conditions, and the use of lubricants containing double bonds in their molecular structure[
9]. At the micro-level, Cr(III) is an essential trace element for multiple physiological processes in the human body, such as glucose, fat, and protein metabolism, by enhancing insulin activity [
10]. While Cr(III) complexes face challenges in penetrating cell membranes [
11], Cr(VI) is highly soluble in water and toxic. It can pass rapidly through cell membranes, accumulating and, eventually, interacting with proteins and nucleic acids, ultimately damaging DNA [
12].
The leather goods industry was worth USD 245 billion in 2022 [
13] and stands out as one of the most environmentally impactful and resource-intensive sectors. From every 1,000 kg of raw material, 250 kg of leather is produced, leaving a substantial water footprint ranging from 15,000 to 120,000 cubic meters [
14]. This process results in the generation of 15 to 50 metric tons of wastewater and 400 to 700 kg of solid waste, greenhouse gases (such as CO
2, H
2S, NH
3), as well as volatile organic compounds like amines, aldehydes, and hydrocarbons [
12]. The emission of chemicals is strongly influenced by the treatment type and the technological processes employed in tanneries [
15].
Various methods are employed to remove heavy metals from inorganic eluents [
16]. Physico-chemical approaches include precipitation through the use of metal hydroxides, sulfides, carbonates, and phosphates [
17]. Ion exchange utilizes solid resins for reversible ion exchange [
18]. Membrane filtration methods include nanofiltration (NF) for molecules within the 300-500 Da molecular weight range [
19] and reverse osmosis (RO) through a pressure-driven separation [
20]. Other recent alternative techniques have also been employed, such as coagulation/flocculation, electrocoagulation, electro-floatation, and electro-deposition [
21]. However, these methods may have drawbacks, such as incomplete metal removal, sludge generation, high reagent and energy requirements, and membrane fouling [
22]. As a result, attention has turned towards biological remediation methods, such as biosorption, bioaccumulation and biotransformation, which offer cost-effective and environmentally friendly solutions for efficiently removing heavy metals like chromium from industrial waste [
23]. Microorganisms eliminate heavy metals through enzyme-catalyzed metabolic pathways for toxic substance degradation, transforming them into carbon dioxide, methane, water, and biomass [
24]. A wide range of microorganisms, bacteria [
25], algae [
26], fungi [
27] and phyto species [
28] have already been identified and isolated for potential heavy metal bioremediation and wastewater treatment.
On the other hand current Directive 1999/31/EC of April 26th 1999 [
29] on the landfill of waste, as well as Directive 2008/98/EC [
30] on garbage [
16], allows the incineration or disposal in landfills of leather waste, chrome shavings, and solid waste. However, starting January 1st, 2025, the new Directive (EU) 2018/850 on landfills of waste [
20] will prohibit landfilling or incineration as management methods for industrial textile waste. The European leather industry to increasingly focus on sustainability initiatives to reduce environmental impact and promote responsible sourcing [
31]. Through the implementation of leather processing guides to improve and implement sustainable manufacturing practices [
32], but most importantly by developmping more biodegradable leather products which could be composted. Leather biodegradability directly depends on the nature of the tanning agents and chemicals used in the manufacturing process, therefore the leather industry has also focused on developping more biodegradable leathers with the aim of giving their end products an sustainable, non-contaminating second life or feasable disposal. These include the use of chrome-free leather manufacturing using non-metal tanning materials such as vegetable tannins (polyphenolic agents known to bind to collagen) [
33], aldehydes compounds (phenolic synthetic compounds bind to amine groups of collagens forming ionic bonds), calixarene [
34], and other metal-free tanning agents [
35]. Also the developpment of faux leather substitutes, mainly consist of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or polyurethane (PU) layered onto a backing fabric (synthetic or natural, such as cotton or organic waste), undergo a surface coating procedure to boost their resilience and longevity. A recent study on the composting capacity of leathers[
36] found that bovine leather treated with alginate derivatives degraded completely within 21 to 25 days, conventionally produced wet-blue leather degraded within 31 to 35 days, vegetable-tanned bovine leather showed initial signs of degradation after 60 days but did not fully disintegrate even after 90 days, whreas alternative materials, containing non-biodegradable components like PU and PVC, showed no degradation after 90 days.
Current compostability standard ISO 17088:2021[
37] developped specifically for plastic compostability evaluation and has been commonly used to evaluate leather compostability. Leather and plastic have different physico-chemical characteristics and show different ways of degradation. Plastics degrades into smaller particles and poses a microplastic generation hazzard whereas leather posses chemical contanimation hazzard of the final compost. In this context International Standard ISO 20136:2020 “Leather. Determination of degradability by micro-organisms”[
38] was developed specifically for leather. This methodology uses complex consortium of microorganisms from the tannery and urban wastewaters as inoculum in liquid medium to measure the biodegradation potential of leather as a meassure of CO
2 generated during leather degradation in 28 days.
This article aims to present recent research discoveries regarding various front lines; the identification and isolation of microorganisms from tannery wastewaters; identification of microbial composition in the starting inoculum used for a leather biodegradation assay according to ISO 20136 (tannery and municipal wastewater); and identifying microbial diversity shifts in initial inoculum during the process of different tanned leather degradation. The aim is to identify which genera is capable of biodegrading what type of tanning agent as well as which genera is acting at the different stages of degradation.
The focus is exploring their potential applications in enhancing leather biodegradability, wastewater treatment within the leather industry, and facilitating bioremediation processes for heavy metals. This study provides crucial insights into sustainable solutions for addressing environmental challenges within the leather industry, paving the way for developing efficient and environmentally friendly treatments for tannery wastewater. It will also contribute to optimizing leather composting processes, ultimately reducing the environmental impact of tannery operations and reinforcing the leather industry’s commitment to responsible and sustainable production.
Figure 1.
M: GeneRuler DNA Ladder Mix (Thermo Fisher scientific) [
50]. A1-A8: PCR products using archaea oligonucleotides. B1-B8: PCR products using bacteria oligonucleotides. E1-E8: PCR products using eukaryotes oligonucleotides.
Figure 1.
M: GeneRuler DNA Ladder Mix (Thermo Fisher scientific) [
50]. A1-A8: PCR products using archaea oligonucleotides. B1-B8: PCR products using bacteria oligonucleotides. E1-E8: PCR products using eukaryotes oligonucleotides.
Figure 2.
Agarose gel electrophoresis at 1% of the PCR products purified from PCR reactions performed using oligonucleotides for bacteria. Band sizes in bp are indicated. M: GeneRuler DNA Ladder Mix (Thermo Fisher scientific) [
48].
Figure 2.
Agarose gel electrophoresis at 1% of the PCR products purified from PCR reactions performed using oligonucleotides for bacteria. Band sizes in bp are indicated. M: GeneRuler DNA Ladder Mix (Thermo Fisher scientific) [
48].
Figure 3.
Biodegradation results of the ISO20136 assay performed with four different types of leather samples. The graph shows the biodegradation % vs time of each sample. Collagen is the positive control.
Figure 3.
Biodegradation results of the ISO20136 assay performed with four different types of leather samples. The graph shows the biodegradation % vs time of each sample. Collagen is the positive control.
Figure 4.
Rarefaction curves of the amplified samples for bacteria detection. Samples shown M1 to M29.
Figure 4.
Rarefaction curves of the amplified samples for bacteria detection. Samples shown M1 to M29.
Figure 5.
Bar plot figures representing the proportions of detected bacterial genera in the studied samples.
Figure 5.
Bar plot figures representing the proportions of detected bacterial genera in the studied samples.
Figure 6.
Bacterial species detected for collagen samples in ISO20136; (a) Bar plot figures representing the proportions of detected bacterial species in the studied samples (M4, M5, M8, M14, M21 and M25). M1 being municipal residual wastewater, sample M2 was tannery wastewater, and sample M3 was a mixed inoculum (50:50). (b) Line graph representing bacterial shift as bacterial presence in sample (%) of the top six bacterial species found for all collagen samples.
Figure 6.
Bacterial species detected for collagen samples in ISO20136; (a) Bar plot figures representing the proportions of detected bacterial species in the studied samples (M4, M5, M8, M14, M21 and M25). M1 being municipal residual wastewater, sample M2 was tannery wastewater, and sample M3 was a mixed inoculum (50:50). (b) Line graph representing bacterial shift as bacterial presence in sample (%) of the top six bacterial species found for all collagen samples.
Figure 7.
Bacterial species detected for chromium samples in ISO20136; (a) Bar plot figures representing the proportions of detected bacterial species in the studied samples (M11, M19, M24, M28). M1 being municipal residual wastewater, sample M2 was tannery wastewater, and sample M3 was a mixed inoculum (50:50). (b) Line graph representing bacterial shift as bacterial presence in sample (%) of the top 6 bacterial species found for all chromium samples.
Figure 7.
Bacterial species detected for chromium samples in ISO20136; (a) Bar plot figures representing the proportions of detected bacterial species in the studied samples (M11, M19, M24, M28). M1 being municipal residual wastewater, sample M2 was tannery wastewater, and sample M3 was a mixed inoculum (50:50). (b) Line graph representing bacterial shift as bacterial presence in sample (%) of the top 6 bacterial species found for all chromium samples.
Figure 8.
Bacterial species detected for glutaraldehyde samples in ISO20136; (a) Bar plot figures representing the proportions of detected bacterial species in the studied samples (M10, M18, M23, M27). M1 being municipal residual wastewater, sample M2 was tannery wastewater, and sample M3 was a mixed inoculum (50:50). (b) Line graph representing bacterial shift as bacterial presence in sample (%) of the top six bacterial species found for all glutaraldehyde samples.
Figure 8.
Bacterial species detected for glutaraldehyde samples in ISO20136; (a) Bar plot figures representing the proportions of detected bacterial species in the studied samples (M10, M18, M23, M27). M1 being municipal residual wastewater, sample M2 was tannery wastewater, and sample M3 was a mixed inoculum (50:50). (b) Line graph representing bacterial shift as bacterial presence in sample (%) of the top six bacterial species found for all glutaraldehyde samples.
Figure 9.
Bacterial species detected for oxazolidine samples in ISO20136; (a) Bar plot figures representing the proportions of detected bacterial species in the studied samples (M6, M9, M13, M15, M17, M26). M1 being municipal residual wastewater, sample M2 was tannery wastewater, and sample M3 was a mixed inoculum (50:50). (b) Line graph representing bacterial shift as bacterial presence in sample (%) of the top six bacterial species found for all oxazolidine samples.
Figure 9.
Bacterial species detected for oxazolidine samples in ISO20136; (a) Bar plot figures representing the proportions of detected bacterial species in the studied samples (M6, M9, M13, M15, M17, M26). M1 being municipal residual wastewater, sample M2 was tannery wastewater, and sample M3 was a mixed inoculum (50:50). (b) Line graph representing bacterial shift as bacterial presence in sample (%) of the top six bacterial species found for all oxazolidine samples.
Figure 10.
Bacterial species detected for aluminium samples in ISO20136; (a) Bar plot figures representing the proportions of detected bacterial species in the studied samples (M7, M12, M16, M20, M22, M29). M1 being municipal residual wastewater, sample M2 was tannery wastewater, and sample M3 was a mixed inoculum (50:50). (b) Line graph representing bacterial shift as bacterial presence in sample (%) of the top six bacterial species found for all aluminium samples.
Figure 10.
Bacterial species detected for aluminium samples in ISO20136; (a) Bar plot figures representing the proportions of detected bacterial species in the studied samples (M7, M12, M16, M20, M22, M29). M1 being municipal residual wastewater, sample M2 was tannery wastewater, and sample M3 was a mixed inoculum (50:50). (b) Line graph representing bacterial shift as bacterial presence in sample (%) of the top six bacterial species found for all aluminium samples.
Table 1.
Leather samples (S1 to S4) and control (Pure Collagen) used in leather biodegradation assay.
Table 1.
Leather samples (S1 to S4) and control (Pure Collagen) used in leather biodegradation assay.
Sample |
Tanning agent |
Carbon% |
Weight (g) |
Erlenmeyer Flask Ref |
Control |
None |
50.60 |
0.5047 |
2 |
S1 |
Oxazolidine |
44.76 |
0.5006 |
4 |
S2 |
Glutaraldehyde |
47.76 |
0.5002 |
7 |
S3 |
Chromium |
36.11 |
0.5012 |
10 |
S4 |
Aluminium |
41.45 |
0.5036 |
14 |
Table 2.
Extracted samples from an ongoing leather biodegradation assay.
Table 2.
Extracted samples from an ongoing leather biodegradation assay.
Sample |
Time (h)1
|
E. Flask Ref |
Leather Sample |
Volume (ml)2
|
Biodegradation (%)3
|
M1 |
0 |
- |
None |
70 |
0 |
M2 |
0 |
- |
None |
50 |
0 |
M3 |
0 |
- |
None |
50 |
0 |
M4 |
52 |
2 |
Control |
70 |
17 |
M5 |
75 |
2 |
Control |
50 |
32 |
M6 |
75 |
4 |
S1 |
60 |
3.45 |
M7 |
75 |
14 |
S4 |
60 |
3.52 |
M8 |
117 |
2 |
Control |
60 |
40.5 |
M9 |
117 |
4 |
S1 |
50 |
7.14 |
M10 |
117 |
7 |
S2 |
60 |
1.56 |
M11 |
117 |
10 |
S3 |
50 |
2 |
M12 |
117 |
14 |
S4 |
50 |
4.6 |
M13 |
144 |
4 |
S1 |
50 |
14.9 |
M14 |
240 |
2 |
Control |
60 |
57 |
M15 |
240 |
4 |
S1 |
60 |
32.2 |
M16 |
240 |
14 |
S4 |
60 |
8.2 |
M17 |
263 |
4 |
S1 |
60 |
38.72 |
M18 |
263 |
7 |
S2 |
60 |
2.96 |
M19 |
263 |
10 |
S3 |
50 |
3.02 |
M20 |
263 |
14 |
S4 |
50 |
11.2 |
M21 |
263 |
7 |
S2 |
50 |
62.2 |
M22 |
335 |
14 |
S4 |
50 |
13.68 |
M23 |
335 |
7 |
S2 |
50 |
3.61 |
M24 |
335 |
10 |
S3 |
50 |
3.47 |
M25 |
747 |
2 |
Control |
50 |
81.5 |
M26 |
747 |
4 |
S1 |
50 |
59.4 |
M27 |
747 |
14 |
S4 |
50 |
5.22 |
M28 |
747 |
10 |
S3 |
50 |
7.56 |
M29 |
747 |
14 |
S4 |
50 |
23.21 |
Table 3.
Bacterial strains identified from tannery wastewater.
Table 3.
Bacterial strains identified from tannery wastewater.
Name |
Top-hit taxon |
Similarity (%) |
Completeness (%) |
Length (bp) |
Species 1 |
Dietzia maris |
99.48 |
94.4 |
1355 |
Species 2 |
Trichococcus pasteurii |
99.21 |
94.3 |
1396 |
Species 3 |
Corynebacterium lubricantis |
97.86 |
97.7 |
1034 |
Species 4 |
Microbacterium laevaniformans |
99.47 |
95.8 |
1370 |
Species 5 |
Bacillus safensis |
99.36 |
96.2 |
1416 |
Species 6 |
ProteiniphilumAB243818_s
|
99.26 |
98 |
1419 |
Species 7 |
ProteiniphilumAB243818_s
|
95.80 |
97 |
1405 |
Table 4.
Bacterial diversity for each sample according to the Shannon and Chao 1 parameters.
Table 4.
Bacterial diversity for each sample according to the Shannon and Chao 1 parameters.
Sample |
Shannon |
Chao 1 |
M1 |
4.56 |
2127 |
M2 |
4.62 |
2816 |
M3 |
5.05 |
3383 |
M4 |
2.70 |
266 |
M5 |
3.07 |
1205 |
M6 |
4.05 |
3296 |
M7 |
4.65 |
3177 |
M8 |
3.68 |
1344 |
M9 |
3.79 |
2232 |
M10 |
4.59 |
2817 |
M11 |
5.24 |
3295 |
M12 |
4.55 |
3053 |
M13 |
3.77 |
2284 |
M14 |
3.96 |
1821 |
M15 |
4.16 |
2818 |
M16 |
4.68 |
3068 |
M17 |
4.10 |
2553 |
M18 |
4.33 |
2040 |
M19 |
5.11 |
3406 |
M20 |
4.72 |
2972 |
M21 |
4.16 |
2198 |
M22 |
4.84 |
3049 |
M23 |
4.10 |
1837 |
M24 |
4.99 |
3031 |
M25 |
4.01 |
1506 |
M26 |
3.32 |
1217 |
M27 |
4.73 |
1903 |
M28 |
4.15 |
1105 |
M29 |
4.94 |
2727 |