Skin care products include a very wide range of cosmetics, dermo-cosmetics, and cosmeceuticals, including hygiene cosmetics (facial cleansers, bath gels, etc.), maintenance and protection products such as moisturizers, cosmetics for specific alterations (acne, seborrhea, hyperpigmentation, etc.), and for preventing aging, among others. In addition, different forms of plasters, cataplasm, poultices, and masks are used, the ingredients of which often include plant and/or marine derivatives such as algae and mud. Among the last ones, marine sludge deserves special attention, which sometimes comes from natural sources (for example, marine estuaries), although the current trend is towards its preparation and commercialization within the legal framework of cosmetics or quasi-drugs or over-the-counter (OTC) products.
1.1. Marine Peloids
Peloids, known also as thermal muds, are therapeutic agents used in thermal and thalasso centers since time immemorial, with curative and/or preventive purposes, mainly for the treatment of rheumatic pathologies and dermatological disorders, sports injuries, and generally in rehabilitation programs, and also for dermo-cosmetics and well-being purposes both in thermal spas and thlasso-wellness centers [
1]. There are different peloid classifications but the most recent classify them into two categories, related to their origin: natural peloid
vs peloid
sensu strictu; and related to application: medical peloids and cosmetic peloids [
2]. Marine peloids can come, as indicated, from a natural environment, but they are often made ad hoc for use in thalasso centers.
In the wellness and cosmetic fields, mud can improve the activity of glutathione enzyme and superoxide dismutase in the skin, which helps the skin-aging prevention [
3,
4], and also have the ability to adsorb toxic substances on the surface of the skin [
5]. Thermal muds are able to relieve psychological worries and mental stress, as mud baths can regulate neuroendocrine activity associated with elevated cortisol levels throughout the body [
6]. Peloids can also increase skin vascular dilation and improve skin permeability [
7].
Several studies demonstrated that some substances present in mud can permeate through human full-thickness skin [
8], and also ions, that can penetrate via intracellular route, and could repeatedly diffuse through corneocytes [
3], and also some lipidic substances, such as glycoglycerolipids, via intercellular route [
9].
Marine peloids are applied in many different countries around the world, mainly for therapeutic, but also for cosmetic and wellness purposes. The most studied marine peloids are summarized in
Table 1.
1.2. Thalasso-Wellness: The Use of Seawater and Marine Peloids for Well-Being
The seawater or marine cure is defined as follows: “Thalassotherapy is the combined use of marine elements (seawater, algae, mud, and climate), in a marine environment, for healing and well-being purposes” [
25]. In 2010, Gutenbrunner et al. [
26] (proposed a worldwide definition of health resort medicine, balneology, medical hydrology, and climatology; even though the authors do not mention the word “thalassotherapy”, Climatotherapy (the use of climatic factors) is included as a part of Health Resort Medicine. Later on, Maraver et al. [
27] suggested including the use of seawater and its peloids (thalassotherapy), including its modalities, full-body or local baths, showers, inhalations, irrigations, and peloid packs, and its agents, seawater, marine peloids and sand, among others.
ISO 17680/2015 defines thalassotherapy as follows: “treatment using seawater and substances directly extracted from the sea environment, in a marine site, under medical supervision, which is at the same time therapeutic and preventive, promoting wellbeing and healthcare, using simultaneously marine elements, seawater, seaweed, marine mud, sands and any other substance directly extracted from the sea environment” (ISO 17680/2015, reviewed and confirmed in 2020,
https://www.iso.org/standard/60244.html; accessed on June 2023). Thus, most thalasso centers include well-being and wellness treatments, which are sometimes the main reason for visiting.
Combined with other techniques, marine mud/sea mud, or more precisely marine peloids, are part of thalasso-wellness treatments, as can be applied to the body in the form of dressings for well-being purposes, so they are used both in general skincare and for specific body treatments, such as body hydration, cellulite, or peripheral circulation problems, as well as a wide range of wellness care. Some examples are post-natal recovery, anti-stress or fatigue treatments, and post-cancer wellness recovery.
1.3. Composition of Marine Peloids, Characterization, and Thermophysical Properties
Marine peloids are composed of a liquid phase which is sea or salt-lake water, a solid phase, which is frequently made of silt or/and sediments or deposits of the seabed and estuaries, and a biological fraction consisting mainly of microalgae and cyanobacteria. The composition of the peloids is decisive in their therapeutic and cosmetic effects, but so is the method of application, especially when they are applied hot/warm, since it is seen that the penetration of the bioactive substances is facilitated.
The liquid phase is usually seawater, whose composition has been studied by numerous authors in the last century [
28], but also salt-lake water (e.g., Techirghiol Lake, Romania) [
29] and, less frequently, hypersaline waters, as Dead Sea mud, the most studied hypersaline peloid in the world [
30]. When seawater, which is rich in sodium and chlorides is topically applied, the ions penetrate the skin and are capable of modifying the cellular osmotic pressure and can stimulate the nerve receptors in the skin through ion channels in the membrane [
31]. Additionally, the hypersaline Dead Sea water has proven cutaneous effects such as skin moisturization, anti-inflammation, skin barrier repair, and anti-pollution [
32].
The solid phase when comes from a natural environment is composed of a variety of sediment compounds, mostly silt. In addition to marine peloids of natural origin, which are scarce, peloids are increasingly being prepared from clays, such as bentonitic clays, mainly of ancient marine origin, but also others of cosmetic quality with various origins.
Several studies were carried out to study the physicochemical and geochemical characteristics, but also to assess its potential content on toxic elements.
Mihelčić et al. [
16] studied the physico-chemical characteristics of the peloid mud from Morinje Bay (eastern Adriatic coast, Croatia) with the aim of assessing its suitability for use in balneotherapy, finding that, despite having different compositions, specific heat, and water saturation are similar than other peloids used in thermal centers. Other authors studied the Makirine Bay peloid, also in Croatia, concluding that geochemical analyses showed the adequate comparability of this peloid with raw materials already successfully used for purposes related to wellness and therapy [
15].
Glavas et al. [
17] investigated the mineralogical, geochemical, and thermophysical characteristics of Sečovlje Salina peloid, a hypersaline mud from the Sečovlje Salt Pans, the biggest natural park in Slovenia. Results showed that these muds were characterized by very fine, sandy, medium silt in which the mud fraction greatly dominated, and contents of the major and trace elements of saline muds were comparable to their mean concentrations in surface sediment from the Central Adriatic Sea over the sand fraction. Furthermore, the thermophysical properties of the samples were similar to other studied peloids, concluding that all of them were suitable for thermotherapy applications.
The Igalo Bay marine peloid, known for its medical and cosmetics uses, has been investigated and compared with several peloids from the region (Croatia, Italy, Spain), as well as Dead Sea mud. Physicochemical characteristics were determined, with special regard to the metals and non-metals content, finding that there was no potentially toxic element pollution in the sediment or the area from which the sampling was carried out [
33].
Romanian salt lakes have also been studied. Recently, Baricz et al. [
34] investigated three different types of mud from saline lakes inland brackish Na-Cl-sulfated type (Amara), a coastal moderately saline type (Techirghiol), and an inland hypersaline Na-Cl type (Ursu). After studying the mineral composition, physical properties, and toxic elements, the authors concluded that the composition is similar in all of them (sapropel type, as to say organic carbon-rich sediments), and the physical properties (specific heat, thermal conductivity, and retentivity) and cation exchange capacity are comparable to other peloids used for therapy.
The peloid from the saline lagoon Tuz lake (Tuz Gölü) in Turkey has also been investigated. The composition was a combination of clay minerals (mainly montmorillonite, kaolinite, and muscovite) and non-clay minerals (mainly quartz, calcite, dolomite, and albite); this peloid had a high electrical conductivity compared to other studied peloids from Turkey, but authors concluded that, after determining the physical properties such as pH, density and water retention, among others, results suggested its suitability and potential for use in peloidotherapeutic applications [
19].
Determining the possible contamination by toxic elements is of great relevance in the possible therapeutic application of marine peloids. Various studies carried out on marine muds from the coasts of Croatia, Montenegro, Romania, and also in Dead Sea, concluded that toxic elements are within the tolerated limits [
15,
33,
34,
35].
When marine peloids are prepared from commercial clays, they must be of high quality so that they should be free of toxic substances; and this type of peloids has the advantage that clays have cosmetic properties by themselves. In the cosmetic field, clays are used for cleansing and moisturization of the skin and to combat compact lipodystrophies, acne, and cellulite [
36], and also have anti-inflammatory properties [
37].
The biological fraction is also of great interest since microalgae and cyanobacteria found in peloids have been proven to generate biologically active substances (especially during the maturation process), which in turn are responsible for their beneficial effects and actions. Although extensive research has been carried out on characterizing the biological fraction of peloids [
38,
39,
40], there is scarce scientific literature that thoroughly addresses the biological composition of marine peloids. The most studied is Dead Sea mud in which nine extremely halotolerant Bacillus species have been identified, one of them being
B. paralicheniformis, which confers a high antimicrobial action [
41]; and also,
Bacillus persicusi was found to exert antimicrobial activity against different Gram + and Gram – pathogens [
42]. In any case, in thalasso-wellness centers the tendency is to prepare the manufactured peloids, mixing the three fractions: seawater, clay and/or sediments, and the biological fraction, mainly marine microalgae or macroalgae [
1].
Marine microalgae have been shown to exert beneficial effects on skin improving hydration and cell renewal [
43], as well as antioxidant activity [
44]. The most studied are
Chlorella vulgaris [
45,
46],
Haematococcus pluvialis [
47,
48],
Tetraselmis suecica [
49],
Dunaliella salina [
50],
Nannochloropsis sp [
51], and
Phaeodactylum tricornutum [
52], among others.
In summary, when preparing ad hoc marine peloids for thalasso-wellness composition is the basis of their cosmetic effects but physical properties are essential. Determining thermophysical properties of peloids is important to predict their behavior when applied both for therapeutical and cosmetic purposes; the most studied are density, specific heat, thermal conductivity, and diffusivity, among others [
53,
54]. For thermotherapy, high density, high specific heat, and low thermal conductivity are desirable [
55].
Other physical properties as viscosity should also be taken into account as it is important when applied in form of poultices or wrappings, as easy handling is desirable; pH is also of interest to preserve the homeostasis barrier of the skin. Viscosity of peloids has been investigated by several authors, but mainly in thermal peloids or clays for pelotherapy uses [
56,
57,
58,
59,
60], some of them related to natural or artificial marine peloids [
58].
1.4. Methods of Topical Application
As has been mentioned before, peloids can be applied on the skin hot, warm, or cold depending on the illness with the aim of increasing microcirculation and skin permeation, and heat release when applied hot or warm, or reducing inflammation when applied mild cold. For cosmetics and well-being purposes, both methods are used to apply the marine peloid in the form of masks, cataplasms, poultices (thick cataplasm), or wrappings (very thin layer). When applied in the form of cataplasms, the mixture of clays and water produces a cooling of the area under treatment and since the mixture is a good conductor of the heat given off by the inflammation, it acts as an anti-inflammatory agent [
37].
Temperature modulations in the skin and the application of local heat both have the potential of enhancing drug diffusion through the skin. A controlled and precise application of heat has the ability to create a cascade of events in the skin and thus aids in facilitating a faster movement of molecules into and across the skin. Possible mechanisms of enhancing compound permeation include: a) an increase in molecule diffusivity in the vehicle and/or in the skin, b) an increase in partitioning and diffusion, c) disturbance in the lipid structure of the stratum corneum, and d) increased local blood flow. These mechanisms may operate individually or concurrently [
61].
Different methods have been used to improve transdermal penetration (infrared, diathermy, ultrasound, etc.) whose base is the production of heat and improvement of local blood circulation, and also the creation of micropores or channels [
62]. Regardless of blood circulation, skin temperature significantly influences the amount and kinetics of dermal absorption. Substance-dependent, temperature-related changes of the lipid layer order or the porous pathway may facilitate penetration. Additionally, the penetration kinetics suggest a thermal influence on penetration via appendageal pathway in the early stages, with trans-epidermal penetration being the main route later on [
63].
Considering the above, it is necessary to study the thermophysical properties of marine peloids in order to assess their ability to promote the penetration of the biologically active substances they contain through the skin.
1.5. Skin Biometrology Studies
For cosmetic uses, the effects on skin can also be evaluated by means of biometrology; among them, stratum corneum hydration, by means of capacitance, skin lipids, by photometric methods [
64], and mechanical properties such as skin elasticity are the most used to evaluate the efficacy of cosmetics [
65].
As have been mentioned before, despite the lack of studies, marine peloids are used for cosmetic and wellness purposes in many thalasso-wellness centers. In
Figure 1, effects and actions of peloids in skin care are summarized [
1].
In order to evaluate peloid suitability for therapeutic, wellness, and dermocosmetic use, the thermal properties of a peloid composed of bentonite, Nannochloropsis sp, and seawater compared to the same mixture made of distilled water are investigated. Density, specific heat, thermal conductivity, and thermal diffusivity are studied, as well as other properties related to applicability such as viscosity and pH. Additionally, a preliminary study has been carried out to assess the effects of the marine peloid on skin hydration