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A peer-reviewed article of this preprint also exists.
Submitted:
30 July 2024
Posted:
02 August 2024
You are already at the latest version
IRCRA score | Experience (years) | Endomorphy | Mesomorphy | Ectomorphy | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
R | R | R | R | R | |
Energy intake (kcal/day) | 0,90* | 0,033* | -0,346# | 0,406# | 0,018# |
EA (kcal·kg· FFM−1·d−1) | -0,245* | -0,170* | 0,061# | -0,136# | 0,256# |
Carbohydrate (g/day) | -0,038* | -0,044* | -0,199* | 0,371* | -0,039* |
Fat (g/day) | 0,185* | 0,118* | -0,303# | 0,382# | 0,044# |
Protein (g/day) | 0,236* | -0,021* | -0,451# | 0,380# | 0,090# |
Thiamin (mg/day) | 0,113* | 0,076* | -0,298* | 0,229* | 0,066* |
Riboflavin (mg/day) | 0,120* | -0,126* | -0,241* | 0,187* | 0,093* |
Niacin (mg/day) | 0,420* | 0,124* | -0,297* | 0,027* | 0,189* |
Vitamin B6 (mg/day) | 0,179* | -0,049* | -0,213# | 0,132# | 0,128# |
Folic acid (µg/day) | 0,090* | -0,107* | -0,022* | -0,005* | 0,165* |
Vitamin B12 (µg/day) | 0,058* | -0,064* | -0,141* | 0,206* | -0,027* |
Vitamin C (mg/day) | -0,041* | -0,198* | 0,041* | -0,045* | 0,093* |
Vitamin A (µg/day) | 0,023* | 0,067* | 0,161* | -0,112* | 0,015* |
Vitamin D (µg/day) | 0,042* | -0,026* | 0,107* | 0,127* | -0,133* |
Vitamin E (mg/day) | 0,093* | 0,183* | -0,087* | 0,167* | 0,075* |
Calcium (mg/day) | -0,093* | -0,129* | 0,014# | 0,141# | 0,054# |
Phosphorus (mg/day) | 0,119* | -0,078* | -0,300# | 0,321# | 0,039# |
Potassium (mg/day) | 0,118* | 0,009* | -0,258* | 0,339* | -0,014* |
Magnesium (mg/day) | -0,051* | -0,096* | -0,041* | 0,219* | 0,024* |
Iron (mg/day) | 0,062* | -0,050* | -0,251* | 0,217* | 0,038* |
Zinc (mg/day) | 0,173* | -0,107* | -0,313* | 0,333* | 0,066* |
Iodine (µg/day) | 0,207* | 0,076* | -0,410* | 0,185* | 0,182* |
Selenium (µg/day) | 0,071* | -0,050* | -0,348* | 0,441* | -0,151* |
Total (n=46) | Males (n=22) | Females (n=24) |
P ♂ vs ♀ |
Effect Size** | ||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mean | SD | Mean | SD | Mean | SD | d | IC (95%) | |||
Age (years) | 30 | 9 | 32 | 10 | 28 | 8 | 0,190# | 0,393 | (-0,194 - 0,975) | |
Weight (kg) | 59,56 | 10,12 | 67,78 | 7,77 | 52,03 | 4,65 | <0,01* | 2,487 | (1,703 - 3,256) | |
Height (cm) | 167,73 | 8,62 | 174,49 | 6,89 | 161,53 | 4,27 | <0,01# | 2,284 | (1,527- 3,026) | |
BMI (kg/m^2) | 21,02 | 1,96 | 22,20 | 1,71 | 19,93 | 1,52 | <0,01# | 1,409 | (0,754 – 2,051) | |
IRCRA score | 19,07 | 4,72 | 20,00 | 4,61 | 18,21 | 4,75 | 0,189* | 0,383 | (-0,203 – 0,965) | |
Experience (years) | 7,66 | 6,63 | 8,57 | 7,17 | 6,83 | 6,13 | 0,460* | 0,261 | (-0,321 – 0,841) | |
Volume of climbing per week (hours) | 2,71 | 1,69 | 2,70 | 1,73 | 2,73 | 1,70 | 0,921* | -0,018 | (-0,596 – 0,561) | |
Time spent climbing in the last 3 months (%) | Boulder | 53,91 | 28,26 | 55,68 | 30,37 | 52,29 | 26,74 | 0,689# | 0,119 | (-0,461 – 0,697) |
Speed | 1,54 | 10,32 | 3,18 | 14,92 | 0,04 | 0,20 | 0,926* | 0,305 | (-0,279 – 0,885) | |
Lead | 44,54 | 28,29 | 41,14 | 30,12 | 47,67 | 26,77 | 0,440# | -0,230 | (-0,809 – 0,352) | |
Time spent climbing in the last 12 months (%) | Boulder | 53,80 | 25,41 | 53,64 | 30,01 | 53,96 | 21,01 | 0,966# | -0,013 | (-0,591 – 0,566) |
Speed | 0,89 | 5,90 | 1,82 | 8,53 | 0,04 | 0,20 | 0,926* | 0,301 | (-0,282 – 0,882) | |
Lead | 42,48 | 24,57 | 40,00 | 28,45 | 44,75 | 20,75 | 0,519# | -0,192 | (-0,771 – 0,389) | |
Time spent climbing in the last 3 months (%) | Inside | 71,52 | 23,71 | 74,09 | 21,02 | 69,17 | 26,15 | 0,594* | 0,207 | (-0,375 – 0,785) |
Outside | 28,48 | 23,71 | 25,91 | 21,02 | 30,83 | 26,15 | 0,594* | -0,207 | (-0,785 – 0,375) | |
Time spent climbing in the last 12 months (%) | Inside | 67,61 | 23,45 | 66,36 | 24,36 | 68,75 | 23,04 | 0,894* | -0,101 | (-0,679 – 0,479) |
Outside | 30,22 | 21,60 | 29,09 | 20,39 | 31,25 | 23,04 | 0,722* | -0,099 | (-0,677 – 0,480) |
Males (n=22) | Females (n=24) | IRCRA scale | |||||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Intermediate (level 2) (n=7) |
Advanced (level 3) (n=8) |
Elite & High Elite (levels 4 & 5) (n=7) |
Intermediate (level 2) (n=7) |
Advanced (level 3) (n=10) |
Elite & High Elite (levels 4 & 5) (n=7) |
||||||||
Mean | SD | Mean | SD | Mean | SD | Mean | SD | Mean | SD | Mean | SD | R* | |
Weight (kg) | 69,77 | 5,62 | 66,35 | 5,74 | 67,41 | 11,56 | 54,94 | 5,40 | 51,12 | 3,33 | 50,40 | 4,78 | 0,012 |
Height (cm) | 172,69 | 3,21 | 173,50 | 5,01 | 177,43 | 10,55 | 162,09 | 6,74 | 162,32 | 2,39 | 159,86 | 3,34 | 0,188 |
BMI (kg/m2) | 23,38 | 1,50 | 22,03 | 1,51 | 21,22 | 1,58 | 20,91 | 1,52 | 19,40 | 1,18 | 19,72 | 1,69 | -0,159 |
Sitting height (cm) | 88,01 | 3,53 | 91,10 | 2,46 | 92,66 | 7,44 | 86,39 | 2,56 | 85,84 | 2,65 | 84,93 | 1,21 | 0,172 |
Arm span (cm) | 176,71 | 6,99 | 177,55 | 5,84 | 182,21 | 10,35 | 164,33 | 6,83 | 162,92 | 3,41 | 163,74 | 5,57 | 0,147 |
∑6 skinfolds (mm) | 61,52 | 16,41 | 47,25 | 12,22 | 34,92 | 3,05 | 66,31 | 6,10 | 64,09 | 8,62 | 58,70 | 12,65 | -0,573 |
∑8 skinfolds (mm) | 79,54 | 21,53 | 58,91 | 15,70 | 44,19 | 3,68 | 80,16 | 8,07 | 77,08 | 10,17 | 69,28 | 15,34 | -0,616 |
Arm relaxed girth (cm) | 30,83 | 1,32 | 29,89 | 1,86 | 28,56 | 2,49 | 24,89 | 1,91 | 25,30 | 1,15 | 25,09 | 1,48 | -0,018 |
Arm flexed girth (cm) | 33,32 | 1,17 | 32,92 | 1,78 | 32,30 | 3,43 | 25,98 | 1,76 | 26,58 | 1,24 | 27,16 | 1,41 | 0,204 |
Forearm girth (cm) | 26,91 | 3,77 | 27,84 | 1,50 | 27,70 | 1,97 | 22,84 | ,57 | 23,08 | 1,14 | 23,42 | ,72 | 0,342 |
Thigh middle girth (cm) | 50,12 | 2,24 | 48,16 | 2,77 | 47,06 | 3,74 | 47,26 | 2,55 | 43,68 | 2,72 | 44,34 | 3,11 | -0,150 |
Calf girth (cm) | 36,40 | 2,10 | 36,18 | 1,53 | 35,78 | 2,47 | 34,06 | 1,57 | 32,76 | 2,36 | 32,83 | 1,34 | 0,002 |
hand length (cm) | 18,54 | 0,92 | 18,39 | 0,57 | 18,57 | 1,24 | 16,34 | 0,86 | 17,07 | 0,56 | 16,81 | 0,68 | 0,183 |
Humerus breadth (cm) | 7,61 | 0,20 | 7,57 | 0,38 | 7,67 | 0,34 | 6,13 | 0,37 | 6,43 | 0,27 | 6,43 | 0,37 | 0,247 |
Bi-styloid breadth (cm) | 5,89 | 0,38 | 5,85 | 0,26 | 6,11 | 0,44 | 5,07 | 0,14 | 5,21 | 0,20 | 5,20 | 0,16 | 0,281 |
Femur breadth (cm) | 9,83 | 0,26 | 9,95 | 0,39 | 10,17 | 0,53 | 8,97 | 0,24 | 8,84 | 0,29 | 8,77 | 0,35 | 0,164 |
Fat Mass (kg) | 12,18 | 2,86 | 9,66 | 2,94 | 6,92 | 1,91 | 12,75 | 2,29 | 11,66 | 1,42 | 10,00 | 2,52 | -0,590 |
Bone Mass (kg) | 11,94 | 0,66 | 12,09 | 0,93 | 13,14 | 1,88 | 9,21 | 0,73 | 9,30 | 0,43 | 9,04 | 0,43 | 0,191 |
Muscle Mass (kg) | 31,18 | 2,54 | 30,70 | 2,51 | 30,37 | 5,33 | 20,57 | 1,33 | 20,19 | 1,84 | 20,10 | 1,52 | 0,163 |
% Fat Mass | 17,35 | 3,47 | 14,52 | 4,05 | 10,25 | 1,88 | 23,09 | 2,43 | 22,81 | 2,46 | 19,77 | 4,26 | -0,497 |
Endomorphy | 2,99 | 1,01 | 2,08 | 0,57 | 1,46 | 0,19 | 2,99 | 0,38 | 2,89 | 0,49 | 2,55 | 0,79 | -0,589 |
Mesomorphy | 6,19 | 0,70 | 6,04 | 0,94 | 5,61 | 0,58 | 3,87 | 1,20 | 3,94 | 0,70 | 4,35 | 0,66 | 0,143 |
Ectomorphy | 2,16 | 0,67 | 2,82 | 0,85 | 3,46 | 0,43 | 2,66 | 0,95 | 3,46 | 0,66 | 3,14 | 0,92 | 0,308 |
Total (n=45) | Males (n=22) | Females (n=23) |
P ♂ vs ♀ |
Effect Size** | ||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mean | SD | Mean | SD | Mean | SD | d | IC (95%) | |||
Energy requirements | ||||||||||
EEE (kcal/day) | 184,33 | 126,64 | 211,72 | 152,29 | 159,21 | 93,95 | 0,235* | 0,419 | (-0,168 – 1,002) | |
Energy Intake | ||||||||||
Total kcal/day | 1803,70 | 554,18 | 2176,98 | 505,10 | 1446,64 | 313,17 | <0,01# | 1,747 | (1,049 – 2,430) | |
Total kcal·kg· FFM−1·d−1 | 36,82 | 8,44 | 37,60 | 8,23 | 36,07 | 8,76 | 0,551 | 0,179 | (-0,407 – 0,764) | |
Energy Availability (kcal·kg· FFM−1·d−1) | 33,01 | 9,02 | 34,06 | 8,63 | 32,01 | 9,45 | 0,451# | 0,227 | (-0,361 – 0,812) | |
Carbohydrate Intake | ||||||||||
Total g/day | 172,01 | 71,07 | 210,60 | 73,75 | 135,09 | 44,66 | <0,01* | 1,245 | (0,599 – 1,880) | |
g/kg·day | 2,87 | 1,02 | 3,12 | 1,07 | 2,63 | 0,92 | 0,105# | 0,493 | (-0,103 – 1,084) | |
% Total Energy Intake | 37,31 | 7,07 | 38,04 | 6,93 | 36,62 | 7,28 | 0,504# | 0,201 | (-0,386 – 0,786) | |
Protein Intake | ||||||||||
Total g/day | 93,89 | 31,06 | 115,08 | 27,29 | 73,62 | 18,43 | <0,01# | 1,788 | (1,085 – 2,476) | |
g/kg·day | 1,57 | ,43 | 1,71 | 0,44 | 1,43 | 0,38 | 0,021* | 0,703 | (0,096 – 1,302) | |
% Total Energy Intake | 21,11 | 4,05 | 21,50 | 3,89 | 20,73 | 4,25 | 0,527# | 0,190 | (-0,397 – 0,775) | |
Fat Intake | ||||||||||
Total g/day | 80,84 | 25,49 | 96,42 | 24,58 | 65,93 | 15,73 | <0,01# | 1,485 | (0,815 – 2,141) | |
% Total Energy Intake | Total | 40,77 | 6,10 | 40,14 | 5,94 | 41,38 | 6,31 | 0,504# | -0,201 | (-0,786 – 0,386) |
Saturated Fatty Acids | 10,65 | 2,27 | 10,52 | 1,97 | 10,77 | 2,56 | 0,714# | -0,110 | (-0,694 – 0,476) | |
Monounsaturated Fatty Acids | 16,95 | 4,11 | 17,52 | 4,43 | 16,40 | 3,80 | 0,366# | 0,273 | (-0,316 – 0,858) | |
Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids | 7,36 | 2,92 | 7,26 | 2,53 | 7,46 | 3,31 | 0,964* | -0,066 | (-0,650 – 0,519) |
Total (n=45) | Males (n=22) | Females (n=23) |
p ♂ vs ♀ |
Effect Size** | ||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mean | SD | Mean | SD | Mean | SD | d | IC (95%) | |||
Thiamine | Total mg/day | 1,35 | 0,62 | 1,53 | 0,51 | 1,19 | 0,69 | 0,011* | 0,560 | (-0,040-1,153) |
% RDA | 122,94 | 56,76 | 127,23 | 42,16 | 118,83 | 68,63 | 0,153* | 0,147 | (-0,439-0,718) | |
Riboflavin | Total mg/day | 1,85 | 1,11 | 2,05 | 1,14 | 1,65 | 1,07 | 0,054* | 0,365 | (-0,227-0,952) |
% RDA | 129,82 | 78,25 | 129,34 | 71,26 | 130,27 | 86,00 | 0,555* | -0,012 | (-0,596-0,573) | |
Niacin | Total mg/day | 75,32 | 124,32 | 33,89 | 15,02 | 114,95 | 165,34 | 0,256* | -0,683 | (-1,281--0,077) |
% RDA | 513,90 | 895,30 | 192,78 | 83,26 | 821,06 | 1181,00 | 0,683* | -0,742 | (-1,343--0,133) | |
Vitamin B6 | Total mg/day | 2,13 | 0,89 | 2,40 | 0,78 | 1,88 | 0,93 | 0,046# | 0,613 | (0,011-1,208) |
% RDA | 157,19 | 63,77 | 161,49 | 51,63 | 153,09 | 74,51 | 0,664# | 0,131 | (-0,455-0,715) | |
Folic acid | Total µg/day | 321,96 | 143,32 | 333,22 | 129,91 | 311,19 | 157,24 | 0,525* | 0,152 | (-0,434-0,737) |
% RDA | 107,32 | 47,77 | 111,07 | 43,30 | 103,73 | 52,41 | 0,525* | 0,152 | (-0,434-0,737) | |
Vitamin B12 | Total µg/day | 27,39 | 72,29 | 20,49 | 60,13 | 34,00 | 83,10 | 0,200* | -0,186 | (-0,770-0,401) |
% RDA | 1369,51 | 3614,28 | 1024,25 | 3006,56 | 1699,76 | 4155,03 | 0,200* | -0,186 | (-0,770-0,401) | |
Vitamin C | Total mg/day | 168,44 | 188,04 | 146,13 | 101,18 | 189,77 | 244,89 | 0,856* | -0,231 | (-0,816-0,357) |
% RDA | 280,73 | 313,40 | 243,55 | 168,63 | 316,29 | 408,16 | 0,856* | -0,231 | (-0,816-0,357) | |
Vitamin A | Total µg/day | 874,42 | 570,67 | 868,02 | 714,27 | 880,55 | 405,28 | 0,329* | -0,022 | (-0,606-0,563) |
% RDA | 135,03 | 86,30 | 122,77 | 102,56 | 146,76 | 67,55 | 0,073* | -0,277 | (-0,863-0,312) | |
Vitamin D | Total µg/day | 10,33 | 18,88 | 12,78 | 24,87 | 7,99 | 10,52 | 0,555* | 0,253 | (-0,335-0,838) |
% RDA | 206,69 | 377,52 | 255,67 | 497,32 | 159,84 | 210,40 | 0,555* | 0,253 | (-0,335-0,838) | |
Vitamin E | Total mg/day | 19,28 | 38,85 | 15,23 | 6,06 | 23,16 | 54,32 | 0,107* | -0,203 | (-0,788-0,384) |
% RDA | 128,54 | 258,97 | 101,52 | 40,39 | 154,39 | 362,15 | 0,107* | -0,203 | (-0,788-0,384) |
Total (n=45) | Males (n=22) | Females (n=23) |
p ♂ vs♀ |
Effect Size** | ||||||
Mean | SD | Mean | SD | Mean | SD | d | IC (95%) | |||
Calcium | Total mg/day | 866,88 | 355,37 | 949,10 | 371,21 | 788,24 | 328,35 | 0,131# | 0,460 | (-0,135 – 1,050) |
% RDA | 96,25 | 39,61 | 105,46 | 41,25 | 87,45 | 36,71 | 0,129# | 0,462 | (-0,133 – 1,052) | |
Phosphorus | Total mg/day | 1226,44 | 413,06 | 1454,23 | 392,27 | 1008,55 | 304,69 | <0,01# | 1,273 | (0,623 – 1,910) |
% RDA | 171,41 | 59,57 | 204,66 | 58,01 | 139,60 | 41,50 | <0,01# | 1,295 | (0,644 – 1,934) | |
Potassium | Total mg/day | 2897,10 | 1198,47 | 3496,63 | 1253,12 | 2323,63 | 818,83 | <0,01* | 1,113 | (0,478 – 1,738) |
% RDA | 93,45 | 38,66 | 112,79 | 40,42 | 74,96 | 26,41 | <0,01* | 1,113 | (0,478 – 1,738) | |
Magnesium | Total mg/day | 349,70 | 171,95 | 413,72 | 192,97 | 288,46 | 124,79 | 0,013* | 0,775 | (0,163 – 1,377) |
% RDA | 106,93 | 49,40 | 118,21 | 55,13 | 96,15 | 41,60 | 0,188* | 0,453 | (-0,142 – 1,043) | |
Iron | Total mg/day | 14,60 | 6,15 | 16,33 | 5,36 | 12,94 | 6,51 | 0,031* | 0,568 | (-0,032 – 1,162) |
% RDA | 126,12 | 73,12 | 177,91 | 62,23 | 76,57 | 41,80 | <0,01* | 1,920 | (1,202 – 2,623) | |
Zinc | Total mg/day | 10,41 | 9,36 | 10,98 | 3,02 | 9,87 | 12,88 | <0,01* | 0,117 | (-0,468 – 0,702) |
% RDA | 125,89 | 132,84 | 113,55 | 32,39 | 137,69 | 184,37 | 0,296* | -0,180 | (-0,765 – 0,406) | |
Iodine | Total µg/day | 97,41 | 114,14 | 127,76 | 151,42 | 68,38 | 48,66 | 0,011* | 0,533 | (-0,065 – 1,125) |
% RDA | 64,94 | 76,09 | 85,17 | 100,95 | 45,59 | 32,44 | 0,011* | 0,533 | (-0,065 – 1,125) | |
Selenium | Total µg/day | 61,47 | 41,33 | 83,90 | 47,71 | 40,02 | 16,12 | <0,01* | 1,244 | (0,597 – 1,878) |
% RDA | 114,03 | 74,52 | 154,16 | 86,23 | 75,64 | 29,30 | <0,01* | 1,231 | (0,585 – 1,864) |
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