The demand for sustainable cosmetics leads to the search for natural and biotechnology ingredients. The present study reports the development of multifunctional lip moisturizer containing levan (LEV) from Bacillus subtilis natto, sophorolipids (SOP) from Starmerella bombicola and Citrus paradisi (OCP) essential oil , using simplex-centroid experimental design. The formulations were evaluated physicochemically, pharmacotechnically and by DPPH assay. The optimized formulation was selected through Response Surface Method and the evaluation of its efficiency in lip hydration was carried out using bioimpedance method and sensory analysis. The formulations showed pH compatible with the lip region and remained stable after centrifuge test and thermal stress in preliminary stability. Spreadability varied between 415.3 and 1217.1 mm2, moisture retention was above 95%, and antioxidant capacity was around 50% for all formulations. The optimized formulation, containing 0.4% LEV and 0.8% SOF, helped to maintain the lip hydration already shown by the participants; 85% of them reported improvement in this aspect. The incorporation of these actives is innovative and helps in the development of future works, through the use of a new non-invasive and low-cost technique, not previously described in other studies, in association with relevant sensory analyzes in the field of cosmetology.

Onychomycosis is a common fungal nail infection for which new antibiotics are needed to overcome antifungal resistance and other limitations of conventional treatments. This study reports the development of antifungal nail lacquers containing oregano essential oil (OEO), rosemary essential oil (REO), and/or biogenic silver nanoparticles (bioAgNP). The formulations (F) were tested against dermatophytes by agar diffusion, ex vivo nail infection, and scanning electron microscopy techniques. They were evaluated pharmacotechnically and by FTIR-PAS to access permeation across the nail plate. F-OEO and F-OEO/Ag were promising for the final nail lacquer formulation, they permeated through the nail plate and showed antifungal efficacy against dermatophytes-contaminated nails after 5 days of treatment. The treated nails had decreased hyphae and spores compared to untreated control; the hyphae were atypically flattened which indicates loss of cytoplasmic content due to damage to cytoplasmic membrane. Formulations were stable after centrifugation and thermal stress, maintaining organoleptic and physicochemical characteristics. F-OEO and F-OEO/Ag had pH compatible with the nail, and drying time (59-90 s) within the reference for nail lacquer. For the first time, OEO and bioAgNP were incorporated in a nail lacquer, resulting in a natural and nanotechnological antifungal product for onychomycosis that may combat microbial resistance.