L-ascorbic acid represents one of the most potent antioxidant, photoprotective, anti-aging and anti-pigmentary cosmeceutical agents, with a good safety profile. However, the challenge remained to design the stable topical formulation, with such a permeability of L-ascorbic acid as active that the optimal effects on skin could be achieved. The aim of our research was to evaluate the difference between the penetration ability of ascorbyl palmitate incorporated in the same percentage (2%) within the creams and emulgels as carriers, as well as to determine the impact of its incorporation into liposome on the kinetics of penetration. Tape stripping was applied for studying the penetration of the ascorbyl palmitate into the stratum corneum. In addition, the sensory and textural properties of examined formulations were determined. In both cases (liposomal and non-liposomal formulations), creams exhibited a better penetration profile of active substance compared to the use of emulgel. Encapsulation of ascorbyl palmitate into liposomes led to an increase in the adhesiveness and density of the prepared cream and emulgel samples. The best spreadability and absorption during application were detected in liposomal samples. The obtained results confirmed improved dermal penetration of ascorbyl palmitate, either cream or emulgel bases were employed, which further indicates the advantages of its liposomal encapsulation.

Lotions with or without 28% ascorbyl glucoside arginine complex (AGAC) were applied twice daily for 24 weeks in a double‐blind half‐face study of 27 Japanese females with solar lentigos (SLs). Pigmentation scores were evaluated using a photo‐scale and skin colors were assessed using a color difference meter and a Mexameter. Treatment with the test lotion elicited a significant decrease in pigment scores at 24 weeks compared to week 0; with a significant decrease in pigment scores at 24 weeks compared to the placebo lotion‐treated SLs. In the test lotion‐treated SLs; the L values and melanin index (MI) significantly (p<0.0001) increased and decreased; respectively; at 12 and 24 weeks of treatment compared to week 0. Comparisons of increased L (△L) values or decreased MI (△MI) values between test and placebo lotion‐treated SLs demonstrated that the test lotion‐treated SLs had significantly higher △L or △MI values than the placebo lotion‐treated SLs both at 12 and 24 weeks of treatment. The sum of our results strongly indicates that AGAC is distinctly effective in ameliorating the hyperpigmentation levels of SLs at a visibly recognizable level by the subjects without any hypo‐pigmenting effects or skin irritation.