Preprint Article Version 1 Preserved in Portico This version is not peer-reviewed

Exploring Skin Biometrics, Sensory Profiles and Rheology of a Multifunctional Photoprotective Formulation and Its Vegan Version

Version 1 : Received: 11 July 2024 / Approved: 12 July 2024 / Online: 12 July 2024 (12:03:38 CEST)

How to cite: Nunes, K. C.; Alves, B. L.; Dos Santos, R. S.; Araújo, L. A.; Bergamasco, R.; Bruschi, M. L.; Ueda-Nakamura, T.; Lautenschlager, S. D. O. S.; Nakamura, C. V. Exploring Skin Biometrics, Sensory Profiles and Rheology of a Multifunctional Photoprotective Formulation and Its Vegan Version. Preprints 2024, 2024071041. https://doi.org/10.20944/preprints202407.1041.v1 Nunes, K. C.; Alves, B. L.; Dos Santos, R. S.; Araújo, L. A.; Bergamasco, R.; Bruschi, M. L.; Ueda-Nakamura, T.; Lautenschlager, S. D. O. S.; Nakamura, C. V. Exploring Skin Biometrics, Sensory Profiles and Rheology of a Multifunctional Photoprotective Formulation and Its Vegan Version. Preprints 2024, 2024071041. https://doi.org/10.20944/preprints202407.1041.v1

Abstract

Background: The cumulative exposure of UV radiation can result in dangerous consequences such as skin burns, photoaging, and skin cancer, hence the importance of using photoprotective formulations. Currently, the formulations seek to be more efficient, innovative and reach a wider audience. Many sunscreens are vegan, and have antioxidant substances to ensure additional photochemoprotective action. To evaluate biological, functional, and mechanical characteristics of them on the skin, biometric and rheologic methods can be used. Objective: Evaluate biophysical, rheological and sensorial parameters of Face Care Facial Moisturizing Cream® (P1) and a vegan formulation (P2) by in vitro and in vivo tests. Methods: A UV scan experiment was performed covering the range of 250 to 400 nm. Sun Protection Factor (SPF) was evaluated by Mansur method. Rheological profiles were obtained using a MARS II (Haake®) controlled shear stress and gradient rheometer. Biophysical parameters were analyzed: skin sebum content, hydration level, transepidermal water loss, erythema and melanin level, skin color, and skin pH. The acceptance profile of the formulations by the volunteers was determined using a 9-point hedonic scale and a 5-point purchase intention test. Results: The formulations effectively absorbed light covering the UV radiation spectrum from UVA to UVB. The SPF of P1 was 25.21 and of P2 was 12.10 by in vitro tests. They had also pseudoplastic and thixotropic behavior, it can contribute to better spreadability and to form a protective film. Biometric tests showed an increase in hydration and skin sebum, decreased erythema, and maintenance of skin pH after application of both formulations. The products also had similarly good acceptance and purchase intention by the volunteers. Conclusion: The comparation of a commercialized product and a vegan test version showed very similar rheological and great acceptance profiles. Therefore, the vegan formulation is a good alternative to reach a different market.

Keywords

Photoprotection; UV Radiation; Skin biometrics; Rheology; Vegan Products

Subject

Biology and Life Sciences, Anatomy and Physiology

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